To really experience the city, you need to step outside of it. Because the Bavarian capital and its surrounding countryside are inextricably linked.
Even from a distance, the onion dome of the Kloster Andechs (monastery) can be seen rising into the white-blue sky. Officially called the Catholic pilgrimage church of St. Nicholas and Elisabeth, it towers on a hill and commands the Bavarian landscape. A place of yearning. This is where Munich locals go when they want a break from the city without really leaving it. All you have to do is take the suburban train to Herrsching. Travel time to the main station: 52 minutes.
From there, winding paths lead leisurely through woods and meadows until the “holy mountain“ appears between the trees. Many visitors are drawn all the way up to the church on the summit. Others simply wander across the hill, explore the old monastery buildings, and perhaps pass one of the landlords: a Benedictine monk in a black cowl. Whichever route you choose, all visitors eventually meet up in the beer garden or pub. The beer from the monastery brewery is a real delicacy that is best enjoyed in good company.
Getting out of the city to get to know the city: That may sound contradictory – but only until you've walked the Andechs cobblestones for the first time. Because Munich is special. As Bavaria's only metropolis, it is world-famous, cosmopolitan, modern, and diverse. Yet, it is also the centre of the special way of life that has developed between the Danube and the Alps – and which characterises the image of Bavaria, its people and its traditions. In short: The state capital is nothing without its countryside. And vice versa.
In this respect, Andechs is the perfect place to get a feel for Munich. But to leave it at that one detour, would be a missed opportunity. Munich is far too diverse and its surrounding area far too varied to limit yourself to just one side trip. And the connections are simply too convenient and fast. The southern part fans out into a panorama of lakes and foothills, fields and small towns that gradually merge into the rugged clefts of the Alps.
The names of places and landscapes are music to the ears of Munich residents. Take Walchensee (lake), for example, often called the “Bavarian Caribbean”, because of its turquoise-blue water. So don't forget your swimsuit! In Murnau am Staffelsee (lake), on the other hand, you can easily imagine why the idyllic Alpine foothills once inspired painters such as Wassily Kandinsky, Gabriele Münter and Franz Marc to create masterpieces. Tegernsee (lake), again, attracts both jet setters and hiking enthusiasts alike: Some simply enjoy the view of the lake and the Alps from the shore, while others climb to the peaks of the Bodenschneid and Brecherspitz mountains. From above, the panorama expands to reveal even more lakes, including Schliersee and Spitzingsee.
Munich's local mountains, called the Hausberge, exert a very special fascination. This is also due to the fact that, especially in foehn weather, it looks as if the Alps begin just beyond the city limits. And indeed, few cities offer such quick access from the bustling centre to unspoilt nature. The locals like to take advantage of this and head for the 1,838-metre-high Wendelstein. Just below the summit stands the Wendelsteinhaus, which from below looks as if it were carved directly out of the rock. If you are sure-footed, you can hike, but if not, you can also take the cable car or rack railway to reach the top.
Those who like it fast, can climb the Blomberg near Bad Tölz – and race back down on the summer toboggan run. With 41 chicanes and 17 curves, the wind whips around you as you descend into the valley. The mountain also has excellent dining options to offer – and not just hearty ones: The Hündeleskopfhütte near Pfronten, for example, has earned a reputation for outstanding vegetarian cuisine. Its menu includes regional specialties like Flädlesuppe (Swabian pan-cake soup) and Käsespätzle (traditional cheese pasta). The Alpine associations have even introduced their own seal of approval for the numerous huts that now mainly offer regional foods and drinks: “So schmecken die Berge” – “The taste of the mountains”. A good dozen certified huts can be found within Munich's Alpine catchment area.
In winter, snow sports enthusiasts head to Brauneck near Lenggries or Sudelfeld near Bayrischzell – or to Garmisch: Here, the brave and experienced can venture onto the Kandahar run – a firm favourite in the ski professionals' calendar. Alternatively, the gondola next door offers a trip to Germany's highest mountain. At 2,962 meters, the Zugspitze is almost always covered in snow and provides unforgettable panoramic views of the Alps.
To really experience Munich, you shouldn't make the mistake of only focussing on the south outside the city limits. It is true that the Alps form an impressive backdrop in this direction, but the east, west and north also hold plenty of surprises – and sometimes in unexpected places. Take Dachau, for example. The town's name is primarily associated with the atrocities of the Nazi regime. In 1933, the Nazis set up the first concentration camp here, which became a proto-type for the Holocaust.
Today, the site is a memorial that Munich schoolchildren visit as part of their education. Amid this dark history, it's easy to overlook Dachau's charming aspects. The Dachau Palace Garden is a delightful spot for a walk and from the palace terrace, you have a remarkable view across the gravelled plain, over Munich's rooftops and even as far as the Alps. The Dachau folk festival, which takes place every year around Ascension Day (August 15), is also worth a visit. The town ensures that beer prices remain capped, making it more affordable in the festival tent than at many other events in and around Munich.
If you are interested in castles, don't only stop at the world-famous royal residences (more on this below). Head north of Munich and take the suburban train to Oberschleissheim. There you will find Schloss Schleissheim (palace), one of Germany's most stunning baroque buildings. Although: strictly speaking, it is an ensemble of three palaces. The New Palace is undoubtedly the most monumental of these. Its imposing façade stretches over 300 metres with rows of windows. Inside, the richly decorated White Hall, among other things, reflects the high standards of its owner.
Construction of the New Palace began in 1701, and it was intended to substantiate Max Emanuel's claim to the throne of the Holy Roman Empire. Although his ambitions were never realised, the building stands as a testament to the sophistication and craftsmanship of the master builders of the time. The same applies to the vast park that connects the three palaces. Between the water canals, flowers and trees, it is easy to lose track of time – and the century.
If you are looking for a touch of medieval flair, Landshut is the place to go. Located a bit further north of Munich on the Isar River, Landshut often finds itself overshadowed by the state capital. Yet, for centuries, it served as a key stronghold, protecting the region. Its name, “Landeshut” (meaning “protection of the land”) refers to its historic role. The Trausnitz Castle with its tower-supported walls, was built for this purpose and still stands massive atop a steep hill. Most of the old fortifications have been preserved. Directly adjacent to the castle is the palace park, which, after just a few steps inside, quickly offers the atmosphere of a mountain forest.
The old town centre with its Gothic houses has also survived the centuries almost unchanged. Every four years, the people of Landshut decorate the alleyways and themselves in medieval attire for the Landshut Wedding Festival. The event, which lasts several weeks, commemorates the marriage of the Bavarian duke's son Georg to the Polish king's daughter Hedwig, which took place in Landshut in 1475.
It is remarkable, how many world heritage sites are clustered around Munich. One of these, particularly worthy of protection, is the historic water management system in Augsburg: The city, Munich's “little sister”, is criss-crossed by a net-work of canals, streams, weirs and waterworks. Also on the UNESCO list are 5,500-year-old pile dwellings found near Landsberg am Lech and offer insights into Stone-Age life. To the south-west of Munich is the Wieskirche church, which is considered the highlight of Bavarian Rococo – an architectural style that is as opulent as it is playful. Its light-flooded interior with its stucco and colourful sky frescoes, is truly unique.
The same can be said – without exaggeration – about Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle). Located just a few kilometres from Füssen in the mountains, Bavarian King Ludwig II realised his dream of a personal knight's castle here – with long-lasting success: Today, it is one of the most visited attractions in Germany and even served as inspiration for the Disney logo. It is actually surprising that Neuschwanstein has not made it onto the World Heritage List – yet.
We could continue like this forever. After all, there is no end to the discoveries in Munich's surrounding area. Some places, like Chiemsee (lake) in the east, are simply too vast. Bavaria's largest lake is not only home to another of Ludwig II's spectacular palaces on Herreninsel, but is also known as the ‘Bavarian Sea’ and is a paradise for water sports enthusiasts – whether they are lazing on a pebble beach, paddling a SUP or sailing.
A little further east, the Alps suddenly open up to make way for a natural jewel: Königssee (lake). It barely has a shoreline. The mountains drop away almost vertically on both sides, so the only way to get to the other end of the lake is by boat. Along the way, the captain stops, takes out his trumpet and elicits an echo from the cliffs. Because, just like the churches and castles, lakes and nature, beer and traditions, the sound of the mountains is also an integral part of Munich.
