Wolfgang Hingerl sits at the table, Thai dishes in bowls and a bottle of wine and two glasses in front of him

Local Love Ambassador: Wolfgang Hingerl

World class street food

Every year in spring when the Guide Michelin gives its awards, Munich’s restaurants are showered with stars. However, major cities are also defined by simple cuisine, the culinary discoveries that one can stumble across and enjoy even without a fat wallet. We put the top restaurateur Wolfgang Hingerl on the spot: in which restaurant can you enjoy an excellent meal – without spending more than twenty euros per person?

The last rays of sunshine are sneaking through the gaps between the houses on Dachauer Strasse. On the narrow pavement, passers-by are squeezing past the parked cars – and past the few tables in front of a narrow shopfront. Its windows are covered with photos of plates with domed portions of rice and side dishes that are difficult to identify, with the descriptions in rounded Siamese letters.

Krua Thai is written in easily legible golden letters on a red sign by the entrance door, while intense odours of hot fried food and fresh herbs waft from the kitchen behind the façades. If a tram didn’t happen to be passing by, you might almost think you were about to spend an evening in Bangkok.

 

Upgrade Through corkage

Until a cheerful man with a short blond beard enters the scene, with three flimsy wine glasses in his hand and a bottle whose label suggests a very old French vineyard. Wolfgang has summoned us here to dine, as the man behind a whole bunch of Munich restaurants that operate more at the top end of the official scale: the Mural and the Farmhouse each have a Michelin star, while his two other places – the Bambule! Bar and Bar Mural – also offer classy regional cuisine.

The challenge: can he convince us that it is also possible to eat well – and with a generous portion! – in Munich for less than 20 euros per person? One of his tricks this evening: he knows that the people at Krua Thai can be persuaded, if asked politely, that it is alright to bring one’s own wine. In return for a small corkage, of course. Then you have more money for the food.

 

That's a nice touch

Why here, of all places? What could draw someone who normally makes use of ingredients from the Munich region and who is au fait with French and Nordic techniques and traditions to a kitchen that offers Thai street food? “It is actually only in Munich that I got to know really good Asian cuisine,” Hingerl states. According to him, that’s the attraction of a major city. “The food is so contrary to what is usually served up with wine. It warms the soul. And I like it when the spice makes me sweat a bit.”

What’s more, there’s the value for money that isn’t possible for set tables and service. “It’s an incredibly small dining area but we still get several hundred guests a day. It works fine.” And furthermore, Hingerl goes on to say, they can cook simply here. Which is what they do, day after day.

„It is actually only in Munich that I got to know really good Asian cuisine,” Hingerl states

We inspect the photos on the window pane. The pad thai is considered one of the best in town, but Hingerl is tending more towards fried rice today. We also order laab ped, minced duck meat with lemongrass and coriander, beef pad kra pao with fried egg and a green papaya salad for its freshness – with red bush beans on the side, also a Thai speciality that provides even more of a punch and a pure raw food touch. Four sharing platters with which we stay within the set budget for three participants in this wonderful experiment.

Sour versus spicy

Everything is made fresh here, so there is time for a question: how well do wine and Asian food go together? “They can be combined well. Because a lot of fruit is used in Asian cuisine. That’s not the case at all in our cuisine.”So what should we try this out with?

A 2017 Bourgogne Blanc from the Domaine Pierre Boisson vineyard in Burgundy. “A classical cuvée, a typical blend of wines from different sites that are all planted with Chardonnay,” Hingerl explains. “The 2017 has a pleasant tartness and slight ripeness which can be fun. Sweet and sour is always a bit too much of a contrast for me, but it still has to have a bit of a kick. Salt and acidity are what do this.”

„So I’ll just breathe through my ears for a while.”

Aha, do go ahead! “And wine can also handle a certain spiciness well. Unless the rating here has four out of five chillis, but we’ll see about that shortly. So I’ll just breathe through my ears for a while.” Hingerl has brought a little gem with him to Dachauer Strasse which makes us forget about waiting for the food.

 

They do warn people

And then it starts. The platters are brought at short intervals. The rice is fragrant, with a hint of frying aromas. Perfect, that’s exactly what Hingerl likes about it. The fried egg, more frazzled than fried, curves up at the edges. “How do they manage that every time?” Hingerl asks out loud. And offers us the first forkful. Hot, fresh, delightful.

The laab ped is garnished with curled, fried duck skin and curry leaves. Lemongrass and an abundance of chilli pierce through the wonderfully fatty duck taste. Pad kra pao is also phenomenal. The papaya salad is as spicy as a punch on the nose. But that was what we had wanted, after all. We could have ordered it somewhat milder, the menu does issue a warning. Followed by a forkful of rice, the Granny Smith hints of the Burgundy also come to the fore again.

True passion

Hingerl gushes, and it is obvious, that food is not only his profession but a true passion. “This fusion! Sweet, sour, spicy. But also a lot that is pickled, fermented. Garum, fish sauces, I love Thai cuisine!” We swap the platters around, increasingly delighted, interrupted only by Hingerl’s rhapsodies. “It is also an incredibly herbal cuisine, it is full of herbs, bunches of them! And then the ginger, galangal, tamarind...” One simply has to agree with him that it is an exceptional journey to the other end of the world. At a price that is more than fair. And by the end we are quite full!

Does it really taste like it would taste at a street food stand in Bangkok? Unfortunately, Hingerl cannot say. He hasn’t made it there yet. But it is very high up on his bucket list. When he manages to find a bit of time, alongside his four enterprises.

Until then, Krua Thai has to do the job. And it does. And how.

 

 

Text: Nansen & Piccard, Fotos: Frank Stolle
A church window in the Salvatorkirche in Munich

Munich's church windows

The most beautiful windows of the city

Michael Mayer of Mayer’sche Hofkunstanstalt presents the most spectacular church windows.

Fascinating people for centuries: Michael Mayer of Mayer’sche Hofkunstanstalt presents the most spectacular church windows the city has to offer.

The monument to Max I. Joseph in front of the Residenz

Munich's royal monuments

Four kings and a prince regent

In Munich there are fantastic monuments to admire. Where they are and what makes them so special.

In Munich there are several fantastic monuments to admire. Where they are and what makes them so special: an overview.

The tour guide Alvestad-Aschenbrenner stands in the Museum for Abgüsse Klassischer Bildwerke Munich

Ludwig I of Bavaria

When Munich became an „Athens on the Isar“

Ludwig I of Bavaria converted Munich into his "„Athens on the Isar“, many buildings still remind us of this today. An interview.

Ludwig I of Bavaria converted Munich into his "„Athens on the Isar“, many buildings still remind us of this today. An interview with a tour guide.

Young woman sitting at a window in a tram in Munich.

Column

A vacation in my own city

Our author used to be a travel blogger. Now she has started to explore her own city: Munich!

Our author used to be a travel blogger. Now she has started to explore her own city: Munich!

View from the inside of a figure of the carillon in the New Town Hall in Munich.

New Town Hall

The Glockenspiel in ten pictures

An exclusive look behind the scenes.

The Glockenspiel on Marienplatz has been enchanting visitors and locals for over 100 years. An exclusive look behind the scenes.

Panoramic view of Karlsplatz / Stachus in Munich with the Frauenkirche in the background photographed from the air.

Munich's city centre

Classical and curiosities

Numerous Munich stories can be told along the roughly one-kilometer-long route between Karlsplatz-Stachus and Marienplatz square. A city walk.

Numerous interesting Munich stories can be told along the roughly one-kilometer-long route between Karlsplatz-Stachus and Marienplatz square. A city walk.

Weissenburger Platz in Munich photographed from above with a drone.

Haidhausen and Au

A village in the city

Haidhausen and Au have developed from working-class quarters into popular residential areas.

When strolling along the narrow streets of the districts Haidhausen and Au with small shops and green courtyards, it almost feels like being in a village in the middle of the city.

The Academy of Fine Arts in Munich in autumn.

Schwabing

From artists and writers

Around 1900, it was the artists and writers who settled around the university and the art academy and shaped the spirit of Schwabing.

In the heyday of the Schwabinger Bohème around 1900, it was the artists and writers who settled around the university and the art academy and shaped the spirit of Schwabing.

Flowerbed at Gärtnerplatz in Munich.

Gärtnerplatz and Glockenbach

Where the night begins

Independent labels, hip bars, pubs and cool inns attract the young and the young-at-heart.

The Gärtnerplatz and Glockenbach neighbourhoods are known as trendy quarters. Their independent labels, hip bars, pubs, cool inns and calm backyards attract the young and the young-at-heart.

Panoramic view of the Munich Christmas market at Marienplatz.
Christmas Market Tour

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

Book now for 30 €!

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

Get in the mood for Christmas on this tour through the old town in the wonderful atmosphere of fragrant almonds and glittering lights.

A woman with varnished fingernails holds a gift with the inscription "simply Munich".
Vouchers

Buy now vouchers for your visit in Munich. The ideal gift! Guided tours, guest cards and more...

Buy vouchers from 6,50 €

Buy now vouchers for your visit in Munich. The ideal gift! Guided tours, guest cards and more...

Merchant with dried fruit on the Viktualienmarkt in Munich.
Viktualienmarkt Tasting Tour

Discover the most delicious delicacies of the city and learn all kinds of interesting facts about Munich's most famous food market.

Book now for 40 €!

Discover the most delicious delicacies of the city and learn all kinds of interesting historical facts about Munich's most famous food market.

Three copies of the official Munich city guide are slightly stacked on top of each other so that the image of the Frauenkirche remains visible on each one.
Official Munich City Guide

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides - from sights to hidden highlights. Order now free of shipping costs!  a

Order now for 8,90€ incl. shipping!

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides.

With our new city guide, you can take a relaxed stroll through the most beautiful neighbourhoods and discover insider tips from our guides - from sights to hidden highlights. Order now free of shipping costs!

View of a residence serenade with candles in the court chapel.
Residenz Serenades

This Munich experience promises high culture for newcomers and enthusiasts: enjoy the popular Mozart concerts in the Residenz.

Book now from 38 €

This Munich experience promises high culture for newcomers and enthusiasts: enjoy the popular Mozart concerts in the Residenz.

Exterior view of the Munich Palace of Justice on Prielmayerstraße in Maxvorstadt.
Justizpalast Tour

During the guided tour of the present-day seat of the Bavarian State Ministry of Justice, you will learn everything about the history and significance of the neo-baroque court and administrative building.

Book now for 20 €!

During the guided tour of the present-day seat of the Bavarian State Ministry of Justice, you will learn everything about the history and significance of the neo-baroque court and administrative building.

Small meeting room of the Neues Rathaus in Munich
New Town Hall Tour

Explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official City of Munich tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Book now from 22 €

Explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Magistrates, Monachia and magnificent celebrations: explore the Neue Rathaus on Marienplatz with an official City of Munich tour guide. A visit of the famous law library is also included!

Exterior view of the Hofbräuhaus Munich at dusk.
Hofbräuhaus Tour

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Book for 28€, Mass beer included!

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Discover the most famous beer hall in the world with an official guide of the city of Munich and enjoy a fresh Mass of beer afterward!

Towers at Marienplatz in Munich
Old Town Tour

The city walk for everyone who wants to become acquainted with the most beautiful parts of Munich's city centre.

Book now for 18 €!

The city walk for everyone who wants to become acquainted with the most beautiful parts of Munich's city centre.

Wort kettle at the Spaten brewery in Munich.
Spaten Brewery Tour

Experience a brewery tour at Spaten with a look behind the scenes, interesting facts about the company history and beer tasting in the brewery tower.

Book now for 22 €!

Experience a brewery tour at Spaten with a look behind the scenes, interesting facts about the company history and beer tasting in the brewery tower.

Book now!

Street Art-Tour

Did you know that Munich was a pioneer of the European graffiti scene? Discover different art up close in the city with our street art tour today!

Experience the city's diverse art & exciting graffiti on our street art tour!

Did you know that Munich was a pioneer of the European graffiti scene? Discover different art up close in the city with our street art tour today!

View of the Salzach river and the castle in Salzburg.
Salzburg and the Lake District

Visit the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and relax on the journey to beautiful Lake Wolfgang.

Book now from 58 €

Visit the birthplace of composer extraordinaire Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, stroll through the Baroque old town and then relax on the journey to beautiful Lake Wolfgang.

A stone jug with the inscription Oktoberfest Munich.

Order now!

Oktoberfest Shop

Bring a piece of Oktoberfest home: Purchase official souvenirs such as the Wiesn poster or the Oktoberfest beer stein in the official Oktoberfest shop.

Bring a piece of Oktoberfest home: Purchase official souvenirs such as the Wiesn poster or the Oktoberfest beer stein in the official Oktoberfest shop.

A woman in the exhibition "Der Blaue Reiter" in the Lenbachhaus in Munich
Discovery trip incl. City Pass

2 nights in your selected hotel and - thanks to the City Pass - free admission to 45 museums, sights and attractions: our travel package for explorers.

3 days from 313 € for 2 Pers.

2 nights in your selected hotel and - thanks to the City Pass - free admission to 45 museums, sights and attractions: our travel package for explorers.

Bag on green background
Vouchers

Give the gift of a special Munich voucher: we also offer vouchers for all our guided tours. Here you can book unique Munich experiences directly online, print them out and give them as a gift voucher to friends or family.

Buy vouchers from 6,50 €

Give the gift of a special Munich voucher: we also offer vouchers for all our guided tours. Here you can book unique Munich experiences directly online, print them out and give them as a gift voucher to friends or family.